Algarve, Portugal
Proposal in My Paradise: Portugal
Why we went
Returning to the motherland is not something I need an excuse for, but this time, it held extra special significance - I wanted to show Dave, my boyfriend of 3 years, how perfect Portugal is. Dave, on the other hand, had a secret agenda - a proposal that took me entirely by surprise.
HOW LONG WE STAYED
Two weeks, from August 26 to September 8, 2012.
WHO WENT
Dave and Ana
WHERE WE STAYED
In Lisbon, we booked an Airbnb, and in the Algarve, we stayed at my own apartment but there are plenty of options like AirBnBs and villas to rent.
Time Change
The time change wasn't something we needed to consider then, so it didn’t matter.
Transportation
Our rented car was our trusted companion throughout the trip.
Note: We drive automatic cars in Canada where Portugal, like much of Europe, drives standard. So book that one automatic car early if that’s what you need!
Accommodations
We booked an AirBnb in Sintra and then I do have my own apartment in the Algarve but there are plenty of options like AirBnBs and villas to rent.
Our Days
Portugal, my birthplace and home until I was 8 years old, will always hold a special place in my heart. It’s always challenging for me to venture beyond the Algarve when I'm there and the mere thought of any change there is unsettling to me. The smells, tastes, and sights of Portugal embody a home that, unfortunately, I don't get to revisit as often as I'd like.
Here’s the plan I had for Dave when I first took him:
Lisbon
I always spend a couple of days in Lisbon, either at the beginning or at the end of my time in the Algarve. I love this city. I stay in Chiado district, around Elevador de Santa Justa, or Elevador do Carmo, that puts us right in the quaint streets, on hills, surrounded by shopping, good food and cable cars.
Following in Anthony Bourdain's footsteps, we always indulge in seafood at Ramiro's Cervejaria which actually isn’t for everyone. It’s a hardcore seafood joint where there are no side dishes other than the most delicious and perfectly toasted bread, presunto and various cheeses. And then for dessert, you can get a Prego - a tenderloin sandwich. Yes, that’s the Ramiro dessert. Since that’s not everyone’s cup of tea, they do have a couple of actual desserts to pick from now that it caters to the masses. Back in my day (haha!) there was nothing sweet on the menu.
Algarve - A Scenic Drive South
To reach the Algarve, I enjoy the scenic route down the west coast instead of the highway. Amado Beach tops my list of favourite surf beaches but there are so many others that you can still find deserted.
Lagos, historically a hub for backpackers, is a great walkable town lined with beachs and offering boat tours to hidden caves. Touristy but I love it here!
I always enjoy a visit to the Sagres Fort and recommend it to anyone visiting for the first time.
Albufeira and Vilamoura are touristy and not my vibe so I usually skip them but I know a lot of people visit and enjoy themselves.
Faro, the "big city" of the Algarve, is my birth city and where I went to school as a kid so although it’s not for everyone, it certainly is for me. I took Dave to the church Igreja do Carmo because you can go into the back to see the room of bones. That area around the church used to have a cemetery for priests but when they started building around it they ended up digging up all the priests and lined a room with all their bones. It's pretty neat if you're ok with that sort of thing.
I also love the area around the marina and always make my way inside the old city wall to sit on a patio. Near there is where you can catch a ferry to Ilha Deserta (Desert Island) but unfortunately it’s no longer deserted. I remember the days when my cousin and I had it all to ourselves.
Praia de Faro is also nice and a favourite of mine, it’s on a thin island connected to the mainland by a bridge.
Estoi is a cute little town but there's really nothing there other than a palace that was turned into a hotel - Pousada de Estoi. It's not far from Faro and pretty to go visit, they let you walk around the Palace grounds. I used to play there when I was a kid!
Tavira is my favourite town in Portugal! It’s a good balance between touristy and non. In the summer months there’s almost always a concert in the town square. It also has an amazing fish market and beach. The beach is on an island that you take a ferry to. We checked out the Camera Obscura, a neat way to see the city, and the castle there is pretty and free to enter.
One of my favourite restaurants is called D'Agusta. If you happen to meet Chef Hugo, you can tell him you know “Ana from Canada.” He’ll tell you we're practically family! You’ll need a reservation though.
Near Tavira is Manta Rota and Cabanas which are also wonderful and I always return to.
And around there too is a cute little town called Cacela Velha. The restaurants are yummy and the beach is bare but always empty. If the tide is low you can walk across the ocean floor to get to it but if the tide comes up there’s someone who offers rides back on a small motorboat. No lifeguards on duty. It’s one of my favourite places in the world.